RAILWAY LAMB / MUTTON CURRY
The evolution of Anglo-Indian Cuisine makes interesting history. It covers the early days of the East India Company (ca 1660) right through to the end of the Raj and the different foods that evolved as a result of experimentation and innovation during that period. It is probably One of the first examples of Fusion Food in the World!!
When it comes to culinary delights, there is a certain mystery and charm about Colonial Anglo-Indian cuisine with its quaint names like Railway Lamb Curry, Grandma’s Country Captain Chicken, etc. The names of these dishes, evoke memories of the olden days and good food.
This cuisine still flourishes in parts of India and in parts of Britain, Europe, Australia and Canada where nostalgic memories of the Raj still linger on in the form of the Anglo-Indian Community. Anglo-Indian food is therefore the delicious result of the Colonial Raj in India.
The Railway Mutton or Lamb Curry is a direct throwback to the days of the British Raj to as early as the early 1900s, when traveling by train in India was considered aristocratic. It was presumably innovated by the Spencer’s Railway Catering Service. Initially, this very popular and tasty dish was prepared and served in Railway Refreshment Rooms (restaurants or dining places in the train station) and only in First Class Dining Cars on long distance trains, with Bread or Dinner Rolls.
The curry was made not too spicy keeping in mind the delicate palates of the British. It was prepared with tender pieces of lamb or mutton, potatoes and other Indian condiments along with the addition of either vinegar or tamarind juice to offset the pungency of the spices as well as to preserve the dish for the many hours of journey time.
The Railway catering staff who manned the refreshment rooms and dining cars comprised of butlers, cooks and bearers who were all trained in the art of hospitality by the British. They were courteous and attentive and smartly dressed in White uniforms, ever solicitous to the needs of the traveling British Aristocrats and upper-class Indians.
All Refreshments and food were served in the correct dishes and each table in the dining car was laid with the precise crockery, cutlery and napkins or serviettes all embossed with the British Indian Railway Monogram.
Railway Meat Curry was also popular with the Anglo-Indian Railway staff who had to be on duty for long periods at a stretch. The vinegar or Tamarind juice used in its preparation ensured that the curry would last for quite a few days while they were on line and was an ideal accompaniment with bread or chapatis or rice as well. Sometimes, a chopped tomato or two would also be added while frying the ingredients to give it a thicker gravy.
The Anglo-Indian Railway men, however preferred Beef to Lamb or Mutton and so it was known as Railway Meat Curry in Anglo-Indian parlance.
Preparation and Cooking Time: 45 minutes to one hour
Recipe for Railway Mutton / Lamb Curry
Ingredients
1 kg tender lamb or mutton curry cut into medium size pieces (preferably boneless)
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
2 big onions sliced finely
2 pieces cinnamon (about one inch in size)
2 or 3 cloves
2 dry red chilies broken into bits
2 teaspoons chillie powder (less spicy variety)
1 teaspoon cumin powder
2 teaspoons coriander powder
2 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
Salt to taste
3 or 4 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons vinegar or ½ cup of tamarind juice
3 or 4 tablespoons coconut milk (optional)
3 potatoes boiled, peeled and cut into quarters
Method:
Boil the meat in a little water, salt and a pinch of turmeric till tender.
Remove the boiled meat and keep the remaining soup aside.
Heat oil in a suitable pan and fry the onions, dry red chillies and whole spices and pepper corns till golden brown.
Add the ginger garlic paste, salt, chillie powder, coriander powder and cumin powder and fry for a few minutes, taking care not to burn the spices
Add the parboiled meat and soup and mix well. Cook first on medium heat then on low heat till the gravy becomes slightly thick.
Now add the boiled potatoes, vinegar / Tamarind juice and simmer for a few more minutes.
Just before turning off the heat, 2 tablespoons of cream or coconut milk could be added to tone down the spice level if required.
Serve bread or dinner rolls to mop up that lovely gravy. Goes well with rice too.
Note: The same recipe could be used for Railway Chicken Curry
This recipe has become so popular that well known local and international chefs like Rick Stien (Lamb Shank Curry – Rick Stein’s First-Class Railway Mutton Curry), Sanjeev Kapoor and Ranveer Brar has also covered and tried this railway recipe.
This recipe for Railway Mutton / Lamb Curry is featured in my Cookery Book “Anglo-Indian Cuisine – A Legacy of Flavours from the Past”, which was selected as the “Winner from India”, under the Category ‘Best Culinary History Book from India’ at the Gourmand World Cook Book Awards 2012’. – Guest post by Author Bridget Kumar White
This Cookery Book and my other books on Anglo-Indian Cuisine are all available online on Amazon.com both as Kindle and Print versions
